THIS BOMBE WAS DA BOMB
Baked Alaska, or “Bombe Alaska,” was supposedly created by Charles Ranhofer, a French chef who worked at the famed NYC steakhouse, Delmonico’s. (Apparently, the dessert was named in honor of the purchase of “The Last Frontier” from the Russian Empire on March 10, 1867.)
Its layers usually consist of sponge cake and ice cream which are topped with a brown meringue. According to some recipes, the base and center are assembled, in advance, and left in a freezer to solidify. Before being brought to the table, whipped peaks of sugary meringue are placed atop the entire dessert and the whole thing is then baked in the oven for 5-10 minutes (500 degrees), or browned with a hand-held torch.
Brad Kilmore, the award-winning chef/partner at MaryGold’s — which you’ll find on the ground floor of the Arlo Hotel (2217 NW Miami Ct., Miami) — offers his take on this classic sweet. Called “The Baked Florida — Tropical fruit semifreddo, yogurt, pineapple rum” ($14 pre-tax/tip), it’s very much like its “sister,” the Alaska. Not only did we like the attempted “theatricality” of the presentation, but we found this offering surprisingly balanced and pleasant tasting. The semifreddo – which is much like a frozen mousse with more air incorporated into the mixture — worked perfectly here and added to our enjoyment of the dish.
While it’s pretty small, and isn’t exactly a steal at $17+ (post-tax/tip; approx), it lost points as a result, but still scored a respectable “B-.”
At least it wasn’t half-baked …. (Or was it?)
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