FASHIONED AFTER A BRIDE'S BLOND HAIR?
Urban legend has it that the pasta known as “tagliatelle” was invented in 1487 by Mastro Zafirano, during the marriage of Lucrezia Borgia with the Duke of Ferrara, Alfonso d’Este. (Supposedly, the chef was inspired by the bride’s blond hair.) While that account is widely contested, what is certainly undisputed is that the pasta’s name comes from the Italian verb, “tagliare,” which means “to cut.”
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While I thought we should have “cut” our dinner short after our horrible fish dish [“Grouper Al Pastor”], reviewed the other day, we decided to stay at “MaryGold’s” – which you’ll find at the base of the Arlo Hotel (2217 NW Miami Ct., Miami) — because a guest wanted to try the “Hand Cut Tagliatelle — Homestead pomodoro, sweet crab, gjetost crema, scallop parmesan” ($36; pre-tax/tip).
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But we should have “cut” out of the restaurant, after we received this miniscule pasta entrée. For some $42+ (post-tax/tip; approx.), you’d think the kitchen could have thrown in some more noodles? And the gjetost — a brown Norwegian cheese made of goat’s milk or a blend of goat and cow’s milk, and which many say tastes like “butterscotch” or “caramel” — didn’t work for us here. (We found it all too sweet.)
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A guest graciously called the dish, “lackluster.” (I would have called it something more “excremental” in nature.) No matter what the descriptive, because it didn’t make the “cut,” we rated this offering an “F.”
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(Sadly, this kitchen wouldn’t “cut” us a break.)
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