1250 Broadway, 27th Floor New York, NY 10001

PICKY PICANHA PERSON?

Since we were at KLAW, a self-described Miami “surf and turf” restaurant — located at 1737 North Bayshore Drive, right next to Margaret Pace Park — we HAD to try one of their meat offerings.
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While you’ll surely get spectacular views of Biscayne Bay from their rooftop, the food selections were extremely limited and disappointing. For example, we found the SEAFOOD PLATTER (“B-“), and the CALIFORNIA WHITE STURGEON (“C”), reviewed earlier, far from stellar. So, I wasn’t too keen on the idea of going with the only yet another entrée. But the table insisted on a meat option, and the only one we could get was the “SLOW-GRILLED PICANHA — cooked to medium, fresh herb chimichurri, grilled lime” ($21 pre-tax/tip).
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Also known as “culotte steak,” “rump cap,” “rump cover,” “top sirloin cap,” or “sirloin cap,”” PICANHA is a popular Brazilian cut of beef taken from the top of the rump; near the tail. Pronounced “pick-AHN-yah,” the name is derived from the prod ranchers use to herd cattle.
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This protein is often grilled on long skewers, or cut into thick slices, and seasoned with salt. And because it’s covered with a layer of marble fat, the meat is often described as juicy and tender. (But it’s undeniably an artery clogger, so approach with caution.)
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Far from “juicy” or “tender,” a guest described this “C” rated offering as “quite average.” Since I derive no pleasure from consuming — or paying for — a heap of saturated fat, I would have given this lackluster thing an “F,” particularly given the $26+ price-point (after tax and tip). This kitchen should have done a heck of a lot better.
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I don’t mean to prod, but if you ain’t picky about your picanha, this dish may be for you ….
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