Sasha Krilov and Misha Zelman — the founders of London’s Goodman Steakhouse, Burger and Lobster, Beast London, and Zelman Meats — are also behind a new Miami “surf and turf” place called KLAW, located at 1737 North Bayshore Drive, right next to Margaret Pace Park.
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While the Biscayne Bay views were certainly stellar, the food failed to hit the mark. Over the course of our rooftop visit, we tried the SEAFOOD PLATTER (“B-”), the CALIFORNIA WHITE STURGEON (“C”), and the OLIVE OIL CAKE (“C-”), all reviewed earlier. And despite the multiple misses, we still ended up going for yet another dessert, at our server’s prompting.
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Our final course was the “CANDY BAR — chocolate mousse, miso dulce de leche, Oreos, vanilla ice cream” ($15). (Yes, shame, shame. My companions are SUCKERS for chocolate.)
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Conceptually, I guess this was supposed to be a long, thin, sweet, “log” covered in chocolate, and sitting atop some cookie crumbles. The accompanying sauce, a caramelized milk, or “milk jam,” is often made with heavy whipping cream, sweetened condensed milk, vanilla extract, white miso paste, and dark dulce de leche.
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Rather than being silky smooth and exuding a chocolatey decadence, this dessert fell flat. It was dry and had an inferior chocolate kind of taste. Instead of a “mousse,” we got some compacted “moose” droppings. A friend aptly opined that this thing didn’t taste anything like any candy bar she’s ever had … and the small scoop of ice cream we received was described as “nothing special.” (It had a “pedestrian,” store-bought kind of quality.)
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Because it was a pathetic excuse for a dessert, we shot this mousse dead with an “F.”
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