SCARPETTA'S CHARDY CHICKEN
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First off, since they weren’t offering their full menu, (but a limited, set-price, four-course meal at $85 p.p., (and that’s before any beverages, tax, and service charges)), we should have anticipated that the experience might be a bit rocky. And that it most certainly was.
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As we reported over the last few days, our tuna tartare (“antipasti”), and our spaghetti with tomato and basil (“primi piatti”) were both downers. The former was too tart (sour/bitter), the latter was exceedingly cheesy. So, we weren’t holding out much hope for our next course (the “secondi piatti”), which included a choice of the branzino, braised short ribs, or chicken. Because everyone was tired of red meat and fish, we ended up going with the “CHICKEN – swiss chard, pancetta, black garlic and fava beans.”
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Black garlic is made by controlling heat and humidity conditions which cause the cloves to darken over some 15 to 90 days; with the process imparting a flavor range that has been described as umami, date and licorice, soy and tamarind. A sauce is made by adding butter, lime juice, rice vinegar, Sriracha, and salt, and the end-result is characterized by both its balsamic-like tang and molasses-like sweetness.
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To our surprise, we found the chicken moist and flavorful, and ended up giving it our highest score of the evening: “B-.” Points were lost because we didn’t find any of the promised fava beans in our dish, and because the accompanying chard was greasy and salty. But, overall, since this wasn’t a bad dish, there’s no point pecking at it any further ….
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