1250 Broadway, 27th Floor New York, NY 10001

SAMPLING SCARPETTA'S SWEETS

For our fourth and final course, at “SCARPETTA by Scott Conant,” an Italian restaurant found deep within the Fontainebleau Miami Beach -- 4441 Collins Ave. -- the Easter Sunday set-price menu, ($85 p.p., before beverages, tax and tip), offered us a sample of three different sweets: “Strawberry Guava Panna Cotta – Fiori di Sambucco;” “Mascarpone Expresso Fondente – Savoiardi Biscotti;” and “Valrhona Chocolate Terrrina – Navel Orange Espuma.”
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Panna Cotta is a chilled, vanilla-flavored dessert made of cream that’s sweetened with sugar. Gelatin is then used to thicken the mixture and to help hold its form. Unfortunately, this iteration lacked subtlety and suffered from an overpowering strawberry taste. (It was almost as if it had been chemically enhanced in some way and was thus exceeding harsh and unpleasant.)
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Mascarpone -- an Italian cream cheese believed to have originated in the Lombardi region of Northern Italy -- is used to make desserts, like tiramisu, which is typically made with ladyfingers (savoiardi) or sponge cake dipped in coffee, layered with a mixture of eggs, sugar, mascarpone, and flavored with cocoa. We thought this “fondente” could have used a bit more chocolate, and that it tasted like an overly “rummed up” piece of “Tuscan Trifle.” (Because it met with our extreme disfavor, we left it unfinished.)
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And, lastly, a chocolate terrine is a flourless chocolate dessert shaped into a loaf cake. Made with loads of butter, it’s supposed to be a rich dessert. But ours came out dry, with a “Betty Crocker” pudding-like base that again left a clawing, artificial aftertaste. Because this wasn’t how we wanted to end our evening, we snickered when these desserts ultimately rated an “F.”
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(This kitchen could have used a few Twix here ….)
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