Named after a local luminary (Evelyn Fortune Bartlett), Evelyn’s Fort Lauderdale (which opened on March 3, 2022) is a new restaurant on the grounds of the Four Seasons Hotel and Residences — 525 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd.
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Its chef, Brandon Salomon, trained at the Culinary Institute of America (Hyde Park), and has worked at restaurants in Florida, New York, and San Francisco. In 2015, he joined the Palm Beach Four Seasons Resort, where he played a major role at “Florie’s,” helmed by three-Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco.
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Since Salomon’s new place has an “Eastern Mediterranean” bent, we thought we’d start with his “Grand Mezze,” which comes with: “Smoked Eggplant (Rose Petal, Pistachio, Mint, Eggplant Caramel), Charred Red Pepper (Pomegranate Seed, Walnuts, Coriander), Classic Hummus (Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Sumac, Pine Nuts), and House-Pickled Vegetables” ($42, BEFORE tax/tip).
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Of course, the price point struck us as ridiculously high, but we tried to keep an open mind. (I mean, after all, we were at a Four Seasons ….)
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This type of dining experience, which is similar, in some respects, to Spanish tapas, is often a meal unto itself. Also known as “mazza,” “meze,” “mezzah,” “mezzeh,” or “mezza,” it’s extremely popular in the Balkans, Eastern Mediterranean, Middle East, North Africa, and Western Asia, and will typically consist of a combination of hot and cold dishes (including veggies, meats, dips, and breads).
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Overall, we thought the combination we received was “forgettable.” A guest called it, “below average.” And, after factoring in the $52 price, (approx; after tax and tip), this offering landed a “C.”
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I guess you could say, it wasn’t so “grand" ... it was more “mezza, mezza.”
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