1250 Broadway, 27th Floor New York, NY 10001

AN UNAPPEALING MOSAIC

Many foodies believe that “art” belongs in a museum, not on a plate. And while food presentation is certainly important, it shouldn’t outrank quality and taste. A case in point is the “Mosaic Roll -- beets, cucumber, radish, avocado and carrot ginger” ($18, before tax/tip) which you’ll find at PLANT FOOD + WINE, a relatively new restaurant located at 3255 NE 1st Avenue, in Miami.
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Headed by celebrity chef Matthew Kenny, his focus is to “prepare minimally processed, plant-based cuisine that is both refined and healthful.&rdquo" But, how about tasting good?
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Well, typically, a Mosaic Roll is made with sushi grade tuna, masago roe, wasabi paste, avocado, sushi rice, and nori sheets, which gives it an array of colors. You’ve likely seen these tiny fish eggs (derived from the capelin fish) before, as they’re used in an array of sushi rolls. While naturally pale yellow, they are often dyed different colors (like green, orange, or red) to add some visual pop and an “ocean flavor” to many dishes.
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Because this is a vegan restaurant, the roe was scrapped, and our offering came with different vegetables. And while it had a nice, clean, natural, earthy taste, it was a way too bland for the non-vegans among us, and a bit too crunchy. So, it came as no surprise when this roll landed a lowly “C-,” particularly given the $22+ (approx.) price tag (after you factor in tax and tip).
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Jim Rohn, an American entrepreneur and motivational speaker, one said, “Each day is a piece of the mosaic of your life.” Between you and me, this is one piece … you’d do fine living without.
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