1250 Broadway, 27th Floor New York, NY 10001

SOME INK ABOUT THIS INKY PASTA

Coleoid cephalopods,” such as squid, cuttlefish and octopus, spray an ink which is used as a defense mechanism. And while the concept of consuming a black-colored substance may be off-putting for some, it’s become an increasingly popular food additive or coloring agent, particularly when it comes to making pastas and risottos.
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Made up of “melanin,” the same pigment which colors skin and hair, squid ink contains amino acids, like dopamine, lipids, minerals and proteins, and is believed to offer antioxidants (which may improve overall health) and to have cancer-fighting benefits.
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So, given that backdrop, when our waiter at UNION KITCHEN & BAR, a new “neighborhood eatery” located at 2309 N. Dixie Highway, Wilton Manors, Florida, suggested the SQUID INK SPAGHETTI -- which comes with “Key West shrimp, white wine and lemon zest” ($15 app./$25 entrée) -- there was no pushback from us.
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Now some describe the inky taste as briny, while others believe it adds an “earthy-fishy” flavor, but however you’d like to describe the sensation, we thought the husband-and-wife team of Roberto Colombi and Christie Tenaud (the talented owners of this establishment) got this dish just right. Nothing about it was extreme, offensive, or overpowering; all the elements jibed perfectly. (We just wished there were more.)
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While we thought the price was a little high, given the parsimonious pasta portioning, it still scored a very respectable A-.
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Now please don’t make me sling any more ink …. Go give this dish a try!
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