You’ll find a new “neighborhood eatery,” owed by the husband-and-wife team of Roberto Colombi and Christie Tenaud, over at 2309 N. Dixie Highway (Wilton Manors, Florida). A friend wanted to go to UNION KITCHEN & BAR, on a lark, and what a pleasant surprise that decision turned out to be. While there were some little misses here and there, overall, our experience at this restaurant was pretty enjoyable.
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Our waiter, who was extremely gracious and kind, told us we couldn’t leave without trying the Chicken Agrodolce -- golden raisins, cipollini onions, white wine over creamy polenta $27.
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Now, if you’ve never had an “agrodolce” dish before, the word literally means “sour” (agro) “sweet” (dolce) -- with the sauce characterized by the contrasting flavors offered by the vinegar and sugar (and the wine, of course). Believed to have originated in Sicily, some food historians think this recipe was likely lifted from Chinese cooking techniques – where the earliest record of sweet and sour dishes dates back to 708, over 1300 years ago.
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We found the chicken to be moist, tender, and quite delicious, and thoroughly enjoyed the perfect the tangy-sweet flavors introduced by the sauce. But we had a slight issue with the messy presentation and the $27 ask (that’s BEFORE tax and tip) and thus deducted points, accordingly. But it still left this plate with a pretty impressive “B+.”
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Now, see? Instead of being surly or sour, we were surprisingly sweet there.
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