1250 Broadway, 27th Floor New York, NY 10001


On our return from Asia, my friends wanted to stop by the historic Paris Café situated within the TWA Hotel at JFK Airport (Jamaica, Queen, NYC).

With restaurants around the globe — including such cities as New York, Las Vegas, London, Paris, São Paulo, Shanghai, Tokyo, and the island of Saint-Barthélemy — it initially seemed fitting that Jean-Georges Vongerichten (a noted French-American chef) was selected to oversee this particular kitchen.

This new hotel, which only opened several months ago (May 15, 2019), effectively incorporates a refurbished TWA Flight Center (a landmark structure originally designed by noted architect Eero Saarinen), that is truly an architectural marvel; a sight to behold.

While Saarinen’s work is pure genius, and is worth a schlep to Queens just to see it, Jean-George’s restaurant, on the hand, was an utter disappointment — just another overpriced eatery we suggest you skip.

By way of example, his “Yellowfin Tuna Tartare” — ginger dressing, avocado and radish ($22) — was rather pedestrian both in taste and presentation. And the portion size was quite small (given the hefty $22 price point). While the photos don’t accurately capture it, this serving literally consisted of a few forkfuls.

Even though it wasn’t awful, significant points were lost because most at the table were expecting a clean, classic, silky taste, but what we got was “tired,” and excessively salty. It lacked any “flair.”

Given that we expected more from a chef of his stature, and because it underwhelmed us all, this plate scored a coarse “C.”

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