1250 Broadway, 27th Floor New York, NY 10001


“Even Keel Fish & Oyster,” on North Federal Highway in Fort Lauderdale, prides itself on “‘modern Floridian coastal’ dining,” featuring “vibrant, locally sourced bounty from both land and sea.”

Because it’s a relatively new place (opened in late January of this year), we thought we’d give it a try.

Since we’re pizza fanatics, we went with the “White Clam” — lemon zest ricotta, garlic herb puree, arugula salad with lemonette ($19) — hoping for some of that advertised “vibrancy.”

Imagine our disappointment when we got a pie, which was not only extremely low on clams (we could only find about 1 or 2 per slice), but the purée and cheese were exceedingly bland. (We got none of the brininess or spiciness we were hoping for.)

That it arrived cold, sealed its ultimate fate. This unsettling, low-clam dish earned Even Keel an “F.”

#lucasaferrara @evenkeelfish