1250 Broadway, 27th Floor New York, NY 10001

SALMON & AVO TOAST

Because it’s a relatively new place, we thought we’d give “Even Keel Fish & Oyster,” over on North Federal Highway in Fort Lauderdale, a try.

Priding itself on “‘modern Floridian coastal’ dining,” featuring “vibrant, locally sourced bounty from both land and sea,” we decided to get their “Beet Cured Salmon & Avocado Toast” — poached egg, crispy potato, lemon aioli, herb salad, multigrain bread ($14).

We were surprised to find the potatoes mixed into the dish, rather than on the side. (Not only did those vegetables introduce a needless starchiness, they added a pointless density, which heightened the difficulty of cutting into the hardened toast.)

We also didn’t appreciate all the dill that was incorporated into the dish. (Since a little often goes a long way, dill is best used in a restrained manner; more as a garnish, in my view.)

And since the taste of the salmon was wrongfully masked by the hapless jumble of ingredients, including the heavy aioli, this disappointing dish scored an “F.”




#lucasaferrara @evenkeelfish

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