1250 Broadway, 27th Floor New York, NY 10001

TAMALE RANCHERO


If you happen to be into “holistic living,” and are looking for some “vegan kosher,” “plant-empowered” cuisine, head on over to “Plant” — at 105 NE 24th Street — over in Miami.

That’s where you’ll find Executive Chef Horacio Rivadero, and Pastry Chef Veronica Manolizi, blending “innovative technique with seasonal, local produce,” to create “classic living, vegan and gluten-free dishes.”



Since our server was on roll, and had made some good suggestions, we asked her what we should order next. And without a moment’s hesitation, she blurted out “Tamale Ranchero” — adobo squash filling, salsa verde, black beans, pepper escabeche, lime crema — ($24).

Tamales are among my favorite Mexican dishes, and consist of a corn dough mixture that is filled with meat or vegetables. When done right, it has a soft, grainy, spongey taste that can be quite satisfying and filling.

And since Mexican adobos are made with crushed chilies, spices, and vinegar, we thought this dish would have a nice kick.

But, alas, we were taken aback by this tamale’s relative blandness. (The squash filling direly needed some depth; a bit more “substance.”)

While it was all fresh, and nicely presented, since it was “just OK” in the taste department, and because we certainly didn’t think it merited a $24 ask, we rated this dish a “B-.”

Again, not a bad score for “Plant food.”

Follow Lucas on Instagram: @lucasaferrara 

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