Since I like tuna, I convinced the table to try Smith & Wollensky’s “Tuna Poke” — which came with charred avocado, pickled watermelon radish, wasabi ginger emulsion, lotus crisps ($19). Despite all those trimmings, this appetizer came out short. While light and refreshing, because a few thought it was somewhat bland, and that something else — like warm rice — was needed to counterbalance the cold, raw fish, this dish ended up scoring a “B-.”