1250 Broadway, 27th Floor New York, NY 10001

WE HAD A BONE TO PICK WITH FILOMENA'S OSSOBUCO

“Ossobuco,” which is Italian for “bone with a hole,” is believed to have originated in Italy’s Lombardy region. And while you’ll often find different meats (like pork) being offered, veal is the traditional ingredient. So, while we were dining at FILOMENA RISTORANTE — in the heart of Georgetown (1063 Wisconsin Avenue, NW Washington, D.C.) — a guest wanted to try the OSSOBUCO ALLA MILANESE ($55.99 pre-tax/tip).
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Now according to the menu, they prepare the dish like they did back in the “Middle Ages” — with a large veal shank “gently simmered for hours in home-made Veal Stock with rich Red Wine, diced Veggies and Tomato,” and serve it “in the Traditional manner with Saffron and Mushroom Risotto and topped with a Sauce of its own Juices.”
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Celebrity chef, and cookbook author, Jamie Oliver, offers a version made with vegetables, white wine, and broth. His recipe calls for cross-cut veal shanks (bone in), nutmeg, flour, unsalted butter, olive oil, onions, carrots, garlic, celery, rosemary, Pinot Bianco (or Verdicchio), tomato puree, and fresh chicken stock. He has been quoted as saying, “The marriage between the great ossobuco and risotto alla Milanese, commonly known in Italy as risotto allo zafferano … is fantastic, joyful and comforting.”
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Unfortunately, while this protein had a tender, appealing taste and texture, the sauce was a bit watery. It “lacked substance” in our view. And the accompanying risotto “could have used more mushrooms,” with a guest describing the rice component as “quite plain.” (It was far from a perfect “marriage.”)
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Given the $68+ cost (after tax/tip), we didn’t find this dish “comforting,” at all, and rated it a “C.” (I thought, given the high price point, the score should have been much lower.)
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Best not to meat there ….
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