I was invited by some friends to dine at “Sottosale,” an Italian restaurant located at 8001 Biscayne Blvd, over in Miami. And they apparently weren’t aware that the eatery’s name (in Italian) means “under salt” — an old-world, food-preservation method.
Even though the whole “salt thing,” and the website’s kitschy references to “mothers” and “kibbutzes” made me extremely trepidatious, I decided to meet up with them just the same, only to encounter a pretty pizzaz-less pizza (reviewed yesterday).
Next to arrive at our table was the “RIGATONCINI ALLO STRACOTTO” — which the menu described as “Rigatoni, pulled overnight cooked lamb shank, shaved Ricotta salata” ($15).
In the unlikely event you were wondering ... “stracotto” means “overcooked” (in Italian). And It usually references a meat (like a pot roast) that has been slow-cooked over a low heat to create a tender, savory dish. (In the mix you’ll usually find some onions, carrots, garlic, tomatoes, and red wine, that have been puréed.)
Right off the bat we were taken aback by the sauce. Not only did it have a dark “oily” sheen, but we found it a bit too “thymey” and sugary sweet (overpowering the “lamb,” if you could imagine that).
Because it disappointed, rather than impressed, this dish earned a low — but extremely generous, in my view — “C.” (Once again, the relatively reasonable $15 ask spared it from scoring lower.)
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